London (Ontario) Gets the Worm with The Early Bird

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by Louis Lorentz

Tucked into the brickwork on a small side street just off of downtown in the bustling student town of London, Ontario lays a distinctive diner, like a pop-up photo amidst a shelf of dictionaries, by the name of The Early Bird. The colourful eatery has been featured not only once, but twice by Food Network Canada’s You Gotta Eat Here, and like the scholars roaming the LDN streets, is never not busy, and cramming orders like the answers to a pop quiz. This hipster hotspot is a truly unique gem doubling nightly as a club by an equally fowl – but certainly never foul – name, The Night Owl.

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Walking through the doors, you’re greeted by a crew as diverse as the decorations, a savoury and sweet smell from the kitchen, and more Ed Roth drawings than the hood of a 1970s monster truck. It’s noisy, air dense with conversation, laughter and music, which only adds to the liveliness, but my journey begins towards the back of the establishment – the Tiki Bar!

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If patience isn’t your thing, it might best suit your fancy to grab a seat at the bar while you wait for your table and have a gander at the drink menu. Fellow FGFS blogger Acacia did, taking the suggestion of one of the staff and tried the Big Mac Daddy; bourbon, raspberry and cranberry ginger-ale – ra, ra, Rat Fink himself couldn’t stir up something stronger on the course, but if you (like Mr. Fink) are the driver for the night (or like me, and alcohol isn’t your cuppa), the non-alcoholic smoothies are also a real treat. I indulged myself a fruit n’ herb smoothie; strawberry, banana, rhubarb, mint, coconut milk and honey.

The menu rarely changes – once in a while a seasonal option may be added to the mix – but all of the choices are enough to make your mouth water. A seasoned customer is likely to tell you something along the lines of “Everything’s good, I try to get something different each time!” and they wouldn’t be lying.

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Drinks in hand and eyes glued to the menu, Acacia and I decided on our choices for the night after much deliberation. Pirogi poutine for her, and a jalapeno popper sandwich for him (something I’d had my eye on for more than a few visits). As a massive sandwich fanatic, this wasn’t my first trip to this specific menu section, but it was certainly the most unique I’d tried. My taste buds welcomed the contrast between the sweet pepper jelly, the spicy jalapenos and fresh sprouts smushed between two crispy slices of bread.

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On a prior dine-in I’d sampled the pirogi poutine myself, and the generous helping of cheese curds, boiled pirogies and homemade duck gravy (yes, duck, although vegan options are also encouraged) make it a filling and delicious twist on a Canadian favourite – highly recommended!

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If it’s typical diner grub you’re on the go to grab, The Early Bird delivers a new twist to the classics. From the aforementioned poutine, to a platter of fish and chip sliders, or an all day breakfast section that’ll have you eating like Elvis for every meal, you can bet you’ll find yourself baited and coming back to the same worm The Early Bird caught that morning.

Rock Lobster Opens 2nd Location on Queen St. W

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photo by yuli scheidt

 

Queen Street West just hasn’t been the same since Loblaws and the condos started rolling in. The biggest indication of that was when late night food staple, Shanghai Cowgirl announced that it would be shuttering its doors for good. But all good things must come to an end and in its place “all things Canadian, seafood and booze” are stepping in.

If you can’t figure out what it might be, look no further than the booming Ossington restaurant Rock Lobster Food Co. founded by the delightful Matt Dean Pettit. The newly renovated space, which is set to open roughly around June 8th in Shanghai’s old spot (fingers crossed), features a custom art mural (as painted by Pettit’s father, Donald, who worked throughout the entire evening), an in-house raw bar, huge outdoor patio space and some more kitschy Canadian themed decor including a stuffed deer-head.

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Matt has thought of everything here, from the food right down to the cocktails. Behind the bar he has lined up Adrian Stein (formerly of Mistura) and Robin Wynne (formerly of Fynn’s of Temple Bar) to whip up some speciality cocktails that feel like classic comforts. My favourite of the evening? The Fourty-Ninth Parallel. Made with barrel-aged spiced Canadian Club, sweet vermouth, amaro nonino, maple and aromatic bitters and cohiba cigar tincture, and garnished with a Bourbon-marinated cherry.

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Matt has said that while the new Rock Lobster Food Co. space will be open seven days a week and open for lunch, he would like to keep the late night food vibe that Shanghai Cowgirl once had. We were treated to two items that could potentially be placed on the late night menu (Lobster Deviled Eggs and The Rocks Surf and Turf Burger). The Surf & Turf burger is honestly one of my favourites in the city. Weighing in at 9oz of pure love with traditional Bay Spices and some lobster meat a top the burger, you couldn’t ask for anything more.

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But if it’s more of a traditional seafood experience that you’re looking for, then Rock Lobster has you covered. Both the Digby Scallops and Sweet Corn with Mint Green Pea Puree and Old Fashioned Crab Boil and Sam Adams Steampot felt as if I was back visiting the East Coast again, which is exactly the feeling Matt wants you to feel while there. Both these dishes are ones to get dirty with, playful and eat great seafood. The Sam Adam Steampot just kept giving me layers upon layers of goodness that would not end. Lobster, mussels, shrimp, crab, corn, scallops — each scoop into the pot pulled out more and more delicious food.

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The nice unique feature that Matt mentioned about the new Rock Lobster space was that beyond slinging food all day, they will have their own retail corner complete with fish monger, custom sauces and other offerings. “As soon as customers have a bill brought to their table, they can check off which seafood they would like to have added onto their bill as well.” He mentions that he envisions diners adding a take-away order to their bill of fish filets and scallops and heading home with fresh seafood.

So with the combination of good (sea)food, amazing & accessible cocktails and late night eats – it sounds like Matt Dean Pettit and the Rock Lobster team are in for a success with the launch of their Queen West location.

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Originally posted to Toronto Is Awesome, where you can find Ama’s bi-weekly food column. 

Steven Salm and Michael Steh Set to Bring Stellar Seafood to Downtown Core

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Proprietor Steven Salm – Photos by Yuli Scheidt

This past Thursday May 23rd a baker’s dozen of media types donned hard hats and got a very special tour of the spaces that will shortly be two unique dinning spaces in Toronto’s Downtown core. Proprietor Steven Salm, a New Yorker who is having a big love affair with Toronto, and Executive Chef Michael Steh have taken up residence in the Historic Dineen Building at 10 Temperance just off Yonge St. And they’ve been busy.

The tour began out on the street with some hearty chowder from The Chase‘s food truck. The chowder was rich and full of vibrant colours, elements evident in all the dish served up. From the delicate burnt orange of the oysters to the bright green of the peas; the flavours came through and blew away any notion of chowder being standard and boring.

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The Chase Chowder

The Chase food truck has been making the rounds in the Financial District this past week ahead of the restaurants’ opening. You’ll find it there tomorrow and at the NE corner of Yonge and Bloor on Thursday serving up Lobster Rolls among other eats. You can follow the truck’s adventures at ChaseTheChase.com

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Steven Salm & Exceutive Chef Michael Steh

With the warmth of the chowder in our bellies the real tour could begin. The group was escorted down a cobble stone lane-way to the rear of the Dineen Building. We were met with the skeleton and frame work that will become The Chase Fish & Oyster on the main floor and the custom elevator still under construction that will whisk guests up to the 5th floor for The Chase. Two separate restaurants, with their own kitchens and staff.

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Chef de Cuisine Nigel Finley, Steven Salm, Executive Chef Michael Steh

Stepping passed what will become a large open glass entryway, we entered The Chase Fish & Oyster. Large skylights let in beautiful afternoon light, cascading across exposed brick as far as the eye can see. Two Roman archways marked the entry way to the bar, yet to be constructed. Here the group was introduced to Chef de Cuisine Nigel Finley, known for his time spent at Bloom and more recently Catch. Chef Finely expressed his intentions to bring sustainably sourced seafood and local ingredients to The Chase Fish & Oyster and we got a taste of just what he meant by that.

Throughout the tour all those involved in the projects communicated the importance of sustainably sourced fish and seafood, as well as the need to bring humble and thoughtful seafood dinning to Toronto. When asked about whether either the ground floor space or the 5th floor restaurant would be open for lunch hours, proprietor Steven Salm said he was interested in doing so, but also thought that brunch could be a viable option. Possibly a risky venture in an area that all but becomes a ghost town when the office workers have gone for the day. It’s a refreshing notion and we look forward to seeing how The Chase tests those waters.

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Steven Salm outlining construction and décor plans

After a tour of the main floor where Mr. Salm outlined all the details of the planned décor, including a hook-shaped bar and nautical flags adorning the Cathedral-height ceilings, we were taken to a lower level. Planned for this space are private dinning areas, restrooms, but more importantly General Manager and Sommelier Anton Potvin‘s wine reserve. At first glance it all just looked like the catacombs under Paris but with a little imagination one started to see the potential. Past the new framework and electrical bits you could really see the charm of the Dineen Building at the forefront of all these plans.

To ascend to the 5th floor future guests will take the custom built elevator but for the purposes of this Hard Hat tour the group had to make use of the existing lift in the Dineen Building. Here we got to peek our heads into the newly opened Dineen Coffee Co. An impeccably beautiful space that perfectly melds modern needs with old bistro allure. A wonderful addition to the area, not unlike The Chase.

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Exceutive Chef Michael Steh in the future space of The Chase on the 5th floor

Once on the 5th floor we were greeted by floor-to-ceiling glass and what has to be one of the best views around. Being on the top floor has its advantages, such as the planned roof top patio, where guests can order from the bar without having to go inside, as the bar will traverse  both inside and out made possible by custom made windows.

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Lobster in avocado with seasonal dressings

The structure is key to these two restaurants. The separate kitchens and staff ensure the spaces give different experiences and define them as different presences while both focusing on fresh, innovative, seasonal dishes. Both are grounded in the Chase Team’s philosophy of upscale dining that’s thoughtful, approachable, and social. Offering New Canadian food, using the techniques lured from the Italian, French, Asian and Latin American traditions.

As GM and Sommelier for the two restaurants, Anton Potvin stressed that while there will always be room to play he will focus on solid wine choices and that the two spaces will share a liquor license, allowing them to pull from the same reserves.

Opening this Summer The Chase and The Chase Fish & Oyster are set to take on those old-hat, preconceived notions about dinning in Downtown Toronto and what a seafood joint in this town looks like.

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